After the amazing experience in San Vito Lo Capo and one last night in Palermo at our great hotel, Eurostar Centrale Palace, we hit the road again with our amazing driver, Alfonso. Alfonso took excellent care of us and was always flexible if we wandered off track or decided to make a change to our itinerary – not that we did that often! He was an incredible driver, expertly navigating the winding mountain roads and narrow city streets with such ease. I felt completely safe and relaxed in his capable hands, which allowed me to fully enjoy the stunning scenery.
Our next stop was Segesta, where the Greeks settled before 450 BCE. Can you imagine choosing this place to build a city? As we arrived just as the site opened, we were greeted by a tranquil atmosphere, with very few crowds and the perfect opportunity for capturing amazing photos. First, we walked up to the Temple of Segesta, a remarkably well-preserved Doric temple. Although somewhat weathered by centuries of sun and wind, the columns were all intact and still supported the crossbeams. The roof was long gone, but the temple was impressive nonetheless. I was awestruck by the sheer scale and grandeur of this ancient structure. Behind the temple, a lush canyon revealed where the stone for the temple and city was excavated. All around the valley, lush farms flourished in this microclimate, clearly demonstrating why this area was settled amongst the surrounding arid landscape.
We then hiked up to the amphitheatre that the Greeks built at the top of the hill. It was a bit of a climb, but so worth it! If you're unable to hike 1.5 km uphill, I highly recommend booking the ticket that includes the bus transfer or paying for it on-site for a few extra euros. There was something magical about hiking up the hill, just as the Greeks would have done to enjoy a scholarly presentation or performance at the theatre. I could almost hear the echoes of ancient voices and feel the energy of the crowds who once gathered here.
The Greeks didn't build amphitheatres; they carved them into the hillside. When we ascended to the top of the mountain, we were met with well-preserved seats overlooking a breathtaking vista of hills, mountains, and the shimmering ocean in the distance. The view simply took my breath away! One thing that really stood out was how stadium seating hasn't changed much in design over 2,500 years! Sure, there are different materials, but the spacing and principles of crowd movement aren't that different from today. This is a real testament to the sophistication of ancient Greek design.
Feeling invigorated by our hike, we moved on to have lunch in Sciacca, a beautiful seaside town famous for its ceramics. The aroma of fresh seafood and herbs wafted through the air, tempting us with promises of culinary delights. We decided to eat at Ristorante Porto San Paolo, which had a beautiful terrace overlooking the city and harbour. The food delighted our taste buds with its fresh flavours and exquisite presentation. I enjoyed a beautiful grilled octopus dish. We savoured every bite of our meal while enjoying the warm sea breeze and the colourful sights of the harbour. We highly recommend eating here if you have the chance.
Sciacca is an amazing place to buy ceramics for your home or as souvenirs, with lots of great shops to explore. The ceramic pine cones are a fantastic gift to give to friends and family, offering wishes of prosperity. My last recommendation for Sciacca is to check out Cortile Carini, a stairway leading up into a residential area. There's a sign asking visitors to be quiet and respectful of the neighbours but welcoming you to view the ceramic art that decorates the stairwell, courtyard, gardens, and outside of the buildings. I always love when people take pride in their homes and create beautiful, welcoming art. It adds so much character and charm to a place.
After lunch, we visited Casa Museo del Sapone for a soap workshop and olive oil experience. We were given a quick lesson on the history of olive oil soap and were able to view traditional soaps from all over the Mediterranean in the museum. Our host then took us for a walk through the olive grove, where the air was filled with the fragrant scent of olive trees. He discussed organic farming techniques and how they've reverted to using no water on the trees (except for very young trees). It was impressive to see the anchor plants that deter pests, the plants used to prevent evaporation, and the natural plants they let grow until they mulch them for nutrients for the olive trees. This all paid off with a tasting of three amazing olive oils on the museum's terrace. You can really taste the difference that the level of care and dedication to organic farming creates in the oils. Each one was a symphony of flavour, with subtle notes of grass, fruit, and spice.
Finally, we made our way to the Don Giovanni Hotel, where we enjoyed a refreshing dip in the pool overlooking the vineyard-covered countryside as the sun painted the sky with vibrant hues of orange and purple. The feeling of the cool water on my skin after a long day of exploring was pure bliss. The day was topped off by an incredible and generously portioned dinner provided by the hotel, with overflowing wine from the vineyard. The food was a celebration of local ingredients, prepared with passion and artistry. What a perfect way to end such a fun-filled and educational day!
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